On the day we were to leave, I was still doubtful that I would be going on this trip. Lindeka did not return my call and it was 3pm on Thursday afternoon. I tried ringing her but all I heard was her voicemail. Then at 5pm, she called. "Come to Camera Land on Long Street and we leave at 7 tonight." I said ok, and asked how much I should bring and if I should bring my bag. She didn't give me an answer. It worried me, that I wasn't told about the journey 2 hours before we left. But I dismissed it as photographers being -chill-. And I wondered if this spontaneous planning is just part of a photographers' profession.
When we got to the bus station, she wasn't able to buy her ticket. Lindeka is part of the organization called Ilsolo Labantu Group, an organization that allows members of community in Townships (usually lower income groups) to practice and sell photography. And Lindeka's organization had not deposited money for her for this trip, and hence, she wasn't able to buy a ticket there. So we made an agreement that I would pay for her ticket there and that she would fund my return journey.
And so, we took a 12 hour bus ride, from Cape Town to Queenstown. On the bus, everyone was Xhosa. I stood out among these people and I wasn't able to understand. But with Lindeka and Phuywe (another member of Ilsolo Labantu) around, I felt safe. We got to Queenstown the next day at 8am and had time to stretch our legs before we boarded a mini-taxi to take us to Bholothwa, a village 30 minutes away from the town.
I enjoyed this half hour journey. It was dusk and the mountains casted shadows on the vast, plain grasslands. The sky was unbelieably blue. And at night, it was just dotted with stars. It was one of the most amazing night skies I have ever seen. I swear I could see the milky way then.
That night, under the starry sky, I enjoyed meat cooked in open fire, and African beer (which is made of maize and yeast), as well as the natives, who tried hard to teach me Xhosa. We were all sitting around a fire because it was cold and there wasn't heating or electricity. That night, I shared a bed with 4 other people; Lindeka, her baby, Phuywe, and Zizipho (a kid at the house we were staying in). Crammped as it was, I was thankful because that number of people sleeping there kept us warm. It was a true rural experience.
The next day, we saw an initiation ceremony and headed back to Queenstown.
I was getting worried of getting back to Cape Town by Monday monring as planned because Lindeka still had not received money for our return tickets. And so we spent a night at her cousin's place, waiting to check for the money the next day.
In the morning, I was greeted by the sight of Lindeka getting dressed. I thought she was going into town to check for her money but she said, "I am going back to the village because I forgot something. I will be back in the afternoon." With that, she left me and Phuywe at her cousin's place. Phuywe had told me how Lindeka tends to be unorganized and her sense of time. And I was getting worried that I would have to spend another day there, especially at a house where I didn't know the people well.
And so, I insisted to Phuywe that we left Queenstown by ourselves. She agreed. But in total we had 500 Rands of cash. I needed 400 to get to Cape Town, she needed the 100 Rands to get to her home. We were short of 12 Rands for the taxi ride to the bus station. In all my travel expereinces, I have never faced this situation where I was this tight on money.
But I decided to take a risk, and just get a taxi to town, hoping to find a bus service that sold cheaper tickets to Cape Town. And as luck would have it, Phuywe and I met 2 locals who were also headed to the bus station. He took us to the station which sold tickets for 350 rands. I bought those, and gave 100 to Phuywe for her trip. Saving money for the Taxi Ride when I get back to Cape Town, I had 18 Rands (USD 2.3) for my 12 hour journey. But I was just relieved to know that I would be getting back soon.
Phuywe waited with me until the bus came at 4pm, before she left for her village. The wait was 3 hours and I enjoyed those times. We just goofed around town, going into shops, and browsing. And speaking to this lady at a KFC shop who, with 10 chicken wings and a packet of fries, sat with us. I think the fact that Phuywe and I were so familar with each other just after 2 days surprised her. And it seemed to me, she was rather suspicious of us.
At other times, people asked in Xhosa to Phuywe, if I was her boyfriend! When she explained that I was a girl, one person said, "That's too bad. You would have been lucky if she was a guy and your boyfriend." The next time we were asked the same question, I asked her to say yes, to see how the people would react and they smiled at her. I had short hair and I was wearing track pants with a T-Shirt and a big bag pack on my back. So I am not surprised that I was mistaken for a guy. In fact, I think it worked to my advantage.
The bus came at 4 and I was relieved that I was finally settled in my seat, thinking aobut being home 12 hours later. But that wasn't the end of the story. The bus didn't leave until 5pm. And I was asked to move to another bus. And when I boared a second bus, a lady came to sit beside me and asked, "Hi HOw are you?" I replied the usual I am fine, but then she asked if I knew Lindeka. It turned out that this lady was also a member of the organization Ilsolo Labantu, and Lindeka has phoned her earlier. Lindeka was worried that Phuywe and I left, and I explained our situation and told her that we couldn't contact Lindeka.
As luck would have it, I got to know this lady, Lulekwa on my 12 hour return journey and heard about her interesting life story . Like me, she has been blessed by a series of good luck. If you are keen, you can read her biography at this website.
To end off the exciting turn of events, I saw two car accidents along the highway back to Cape Town. Both were bad. The cars had been smashed and turned upside down. It was as if I was reminded of how lucky I am to be alive and be back safely in Cape Town.
Bholothwa: A village 30 minutes away from Queenstown in Eastern Cape.
The photographers: Me, Phuywe, and Lindeka
This is the bed which I spent a night. I shared it with 4 other people, as you can see in the photo (Lindeka, her baby, Zizipho, and Phuywe). It was crowded but at least it was warm.
Hitch Hiking is not uncommon in South Africa. You just have to hold up a cardboard with some code letters. And offer the driver some cash, usually 75% of what a normal ride would cost.
I'm glad you are back home and safe. Where are the photos of the milky way? DC is very star-less and you could only see perhaps 1 if you are lucky.
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